The homeowner can handle certain DIY repairs, but water heaters are one of those projects best left to professional Water Heater Repair Tampa. Water heaters use water and electricity, which can be dangerous to work on without proper training.

A working water heater is critical to everyday household activities like showering and washing dishes. A plumber can help yours last longer and perform better in several ways.
The anode rod is a metal component inside the water heater that sacrifices itself by corroding more quickly than the internal lining of the tank. This allows other parts of the water heater to remain functional. It’s important to keep an eye on it and replace it when necessary, as its lifespan is limited.
You can see if the anode rod is nearing the end of its useful life by observing the build-up of sediment on the rod. It should be relatively clear and shiny, but if it is covered in an orange, slimy residue, it may need to be replaced. You can also check by performing a water quality test with a pH kit. The ideal level is 7.0 or below, with lower numbers indicating more acidity and higher ones showing less acidity.
Another sign of an anode rod that is going bad is if you notice the hot water has a rotten egg smell. This is caused by a bacteria that is attracted to the metal anode rod and begins to eat away at it. This creates hydrogen sulfide, which has a strong sulfur or rotten egg smell. If this smell is present in your water, it is a good indicator that the anode rod needs to be replaced.
A rusted anode rod can also cause other problems in your water heater. It can cause the walls of the tank to crack and leak. It can also cause the water to look discolored and rusty. You can also hear strange rattling noises when the anode rod is breaking down and starting to fall into the tank.
To replace the anode rod, you’ll need to shut off the water heater and drain it. You can usually find it on the top of the water heater, though you might need to remove a plastic cap or insulating material to access it. Once the water is drained, you can unscrew and remove the old anode rod. It’s best to use a wrench with a closed end, such as a 1-1/16″ socket wrench or breaker bar. This will make it easier to get a grip on the hex head and break it free of its lifelong grip on the threads.
A dip tube is a long piece of plastic that connects your home plumbing to the top of your water heater. This is found only in tank-type heaters, and it delivers cold water to the bottom of the tank and mixes it with hot water from the top of the tank. If this dip tube becomes faulty, you might notice lukewarm water or even a shortage of hot water in your home.
When the dip tube corrodes or cracks, it can allow sediment to enter the water heater. This sediment can affect the operation of the water heater, which can lead to overheating and failure. Regular inspection of your dip tube and replacing it when necessary will prevent sediment from entering the tank.
Before attempting to replace your dip tube, shut off the power to your water heater by turning the circuit breaker off at your home’s panel box. You should also turn off your gas supply valve by turning it to the pilot position if you have a gas-powered heater. Next, open a hot water faucet somewhere in your home to relieve pressure from the water heater.
Next, drain several gallons of water from the tank. Once you’ve drained enough, you can begin to remove the old dip tube. You will need to locate the dip tube inlet on the top of your water heater and remove the pipe nipple and connector from it. Then, use a wrench to unscrew the tube from its inlet connection.
Once you’ve removed the old dip tube, replace it with a new one made from durable materials such as cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Drop it into the inlet connection nipple and reconnect the connector and nipple. Then, pour in water to refill the tank. Once the tank is full, you can restore power to your water heater and switch the gas dial back to the on position if you have a gas-powered one.
Performing regular maintenance on your water heater is crucial to keeping it in good shape for years to come. If you’re unsure of what to do or need help with a problem, contact your local professional home inspector. They can answer any questions you have and help you keep your family safe and warm in your Phoenix home.
If your pilot light won’t stay lit, a malfunctioning thermocouple is likely the culprit. The thermocouple, located within the burner compartment just in front of the pilot flame, is a small cylindrical metal that provides an electrical connection between the pilot light and the gas valve. It is not uncommon for it to wear out over time, due to the constant change in temperature from the pilot flame. Additionally, soot or residue from the pilot flame can block it from working properly, causing it to shut off the flow of gas to the pilot light.
A faulty thermocouple can be easily diagnosed with the help of a multimeter. If the multimeter reads a voltage of more than 20 volts, it is functioning correctly and is not worn out. If it reads less than 20 volts, the thermocouple has worn out and needs to be replaced.
Another common sign of a bad thermocouple is if the pilot light is yellow or wavy instead of being blue. This means that the pilot flame isn’t hot enough to heat the thermocouple and send a signal to the gas valve. Using an emery cloth sandpaper, the ends of the thermocouple can be cleaned to eliminate the oxidation and allow it to receive power from the pilot light.
Water heaters are one of the most overlooked units in your home, but they can have a big impact on your quality of life when they fail to function properly. The good news is that most of the parts you need to repair your water heater can be purchased at any hardware or home center store and are relatively easy to install. However, since replacing a thermocouple involves dealing with gas and can be dangerous, it is recommended that you hire a professional plumber for any major repairs on your water heater.
Before beginning work on your water heater, make sure the gas control knob is set to OFF and close the gas valve. Remove the cover from your water heater and locate the thermocouple. It is a small, black rod with a copper lead. Grip the base of the thermocouple and pull firmly, sliding it out of the pilot bracket clip. Remove the old thermocouple and purchase an identical replacement from a plumbing supply store or your plumber. Screw the new one into the pilot bracket clip and test it by touching its tip with a multimeter. If the multimeter indicates that there is an electric charge, the new thermocouple is installed properly and working.
The pressure valve is one of the most important water heater parts in your home, and should be checked periodically to ensure it works as designed. It releases excess heat and pressure from the water tank to prevent a possible explosion, or even worse, a ruptured water heater. If you notice a constant dripping from the water heater, this could indicate an issue with the pressure valve. Alternatively, it may be caused by the valve not being installed correctly or the metal parts inside of it corroding.
It’s important to note that a slight leak from the T&P valve is normal and can occur if it hasn’t been opened in a while, but it should not be ignored if it becomes more severe. A leaking T&P valve should be replaced as soon as possible to protect your property from the risk of flooding and other damage.
Ideally, the T&P valve should be installed into an opening provided and marked for this purpose at or near the top of the water heater. This allows the valve to be easily opened and closed, so that it can be tested if necessary to determine whether it is functioning as intended.
If you’re unsure if your T&P valve is working properly, you can test it by standing clear of the outlet (discharged water may be hot) and pulling on the lever handle to release a small amount of water into a bucket. If the lever snaps back into its original position, this indicates that the valve is operating normally. If it doesn’t, you should shut off the gas to the water heater, shut the water off, and call a professional to replace it.
A common problem with T&P valves is that they become stuck in either a downward or fully extended position. When the valve is stuck in a downward position, it cannot provide relief should the pressure in the tank reach a certain percentage of its maximum capacity. The T&P valve can also be stuck in a fully extended position when the mineral deposits build up or other issues interfere with its operation, which could lead to a potential explosion of the water heater.